37. East Cornwall Coastal: Talland Bay To and Beyond Polperro - 6miles - OS Explorer 107

Steep in parts but mainly easy going.

Polperro is one of Cornwall’s quaintest fishing villages with its fair share of smuggler myths. One, about Willie Wilcox, trapped by a rising tide in the cave that is still there on the beach, adds a blue pixie encounter. I’m sceptical. More likely a smurf. ‘I come in peace and for a bit of tax-free shopping Mr Wilcox.’

There's no parking in the village. There is a car park above it, but its not the idyllic way to approach this beauty. Via the coast path from Talland Bay is.

Set your sat nav for Porthallow about 1.5 miles to the east.

Approaching from the A387, we parked just before Talland Bay Hotel on the left. Porthallow is tiny, so you can’t miss this quirky hotel sitting in a glorious position with its gardens overlooking Talland Bay. Time for tea with free biscuit!

Done with admiring the garden's parrot bench and zebra striped sofa, head downhill, cutting left off the lane soon after by a footpath sign and through a farm gate into a field.

The path drops steeply to a lane and the east beach of Talland Bay. This is where life gets difficult. You’ll find an excellent café bar here called the Smugglers rest. Only one thing for it: Save it for the return trip.

Turn right up the lane to the west beach, passing a closed public loo and – would you believe it – another café (also a car park). Unlike closed loos, good cafes are not that common. Neither are quiet beaches, so you might want to take advantage of this delightful one with rockpools aplenty.

A very steep climb up a path follows. Turn left at a yellow way-marker to keep on the coast path. Lovely views from here back to Talland Bay, and a large white house ahead to admire. Somebody told me who lived there. 'Really?' I said. Maybe it's true. Either way, lucky them.

After that, apart from a memorial cross to locals who lost their lives in the great wars, and a miniature lighthouse ('house' it isn't) it’s open country and ocean. Rocky and uneven underfoot but relatively easy going, and glorious on a sunny day. There are paths going off right (ignore) and left, which'll take you to that light and back to the coast path. Worth the detour on this short walk.

A picturesque inlet and tumble of white buildings ahead is your introduction to Polperro, a picturesque Cornish fishing village with bags of character.

Unlike Talland Bay, it's well known and can get very busy in season - another reason to approach it from Talland Bay. I'd advise visiting out of season. The first nod to tourists such as we is a café and smuggling museum on you left. It's by the inner harbour that reaches into the heart of the village.

A pleasant spot to rest, but there are options. Walking on a bit further you’ll get the best view of The Blue Peter Inn on the opposite side. A traditional pub full of character, with pithy lines on black beams to raise a smile. One from memory: If I’d have known Mr Right’s first name was Always I would have had second thoughts.

Before you reach the end of the inner harbour there’s a shell plastered house on your right worth a moment’s gawping. It should be awful but it surprisingly impressive. .

Crossing to the other side of the inner harbour turn left and head toward the pub (or explore Polperro more before heading to the pub). The coast path continues up steps directly by it.

Tempted to call in, I was persuaded to wait. On we went, passing a shelter on our right. A shady rest on a sunny day.

Polruin is the next village but, as lovely as it is, this walk doesn't go that far.

About two miles along the coast path, just before a steep descent to a stream and wooden bridge, there’s a path on your right.

This heads up then back, paralleling the one you’ve just walked along. Now the ocean's on your right.

If ticks are a concern and it's overgrown, as it can be, you may prefer to retrace your steps rather than take it. Otherwise, it’s a pleasant way to get a slightly different perspective on the return journey.

Eventually, the secondary path re-joins the main coast path and, soon after, Polperro comes back into view.

This time, passing the shelter on your left, take the path to your right marked Netloft Sixty Yards. This takes you to the top of the cliffs by the outer harbour. A perfect viewpoint.

A single building nestles near the top. Built originally as a chapel in the 19th century, it was later used to store pilchard nets before being abandoned to the elements. Good old National Trust restored it.

I’ve written about the demise of the pilchard fleets before in another trail blog. A sad story of overfishing. Fortunately, tourists like us turned up to replace them as a source of income. And gutting unnecessary.

Another reason to take the little path to the Netloft is to climb down steps to a large and deep rockpool. A great place to relax and wild swim That’s where my partner went while I enjoyed the Blue Peter Inn and a great pint of Devon’s Otter ale. Went down a treat.

If you didn't explore the village the first time, now’s your last opportunity. Yes, the shops sell typical seaside stuff, but the village retains its charm and it’s easy to image it as the backwater it once was, and still is in winter. And its only an hour and a half from Exeter!

If dry beach rather than rocky ledge or damp sand is your preference for relaxing, now’s the time to head back to Talland Bay.