41. Cornwall Coast Path: Lizard Village to Cadgwith via Kynance Cove – 11 miles (or 7 with a taxi back from Cadgwith) – OS Explorer map 103.

Mostly easy going, with places to rest and eat at Kynance, Lizard Point and Cadgwith.

Remote and unique are matters of context in our little and overcrowded country, but areas of the Westcountry could make convincing claims.

One is England’s most southerly tip: the Lizard Peninsula. Sparsely populated, when not fishing, farming or making a full-English for tourists, the locals here carve and polish the local, green-tinged, stone into jewellery or momentos.

Formed about 400 million years ago, these coastal rocks are part of the oceanic crust lifted and plonked on the continental shelf. Out of place in this granite county, some romantic soul named it Serpentine.

The walk starts at the free car park in the centre of Lizard village (conjures up creepy images doesn't it). You can’t miss it. It’s also well signposted. Look out for the one to the coast path and Kynance Cove, just under a mile and a half away.

At first a lane, look out for the path on your right. This is farm then heathland, and numerous Choughs decided to keep us company. This route ends at Kynance car park but there's plenty of tracks off to the nearby coast path on your left.

 Kynance Cove, With its golden sands (when the tides out) and Serpentine nooks and crannies, is considered by some Cornwall’s finest beach. Unfortunately, its reputation - and Prince Albert and

Queen Victoria bear some blame - has made it one of the busiest beaches in this decidedly unbusy area. Looking down from above, the large number of regimented picnic tables lined up in front of the café, give a clue to its popularity.

From Kynance, head south. In a couple of miles you and the Choughs will come to Lizard Point; England's southernmost point.

Time for a tea stop? My favourite is Wavecrest with its lovely views out to sea, and toilets (not all have).

Enjoy your coffee while checking out the ‘Welcome to Lizard Point’ information board with pictures of White Star Line’s SS Suevic on the rocks. The Lizard has grounded many ships. Fortunately, neither posh Nor poor passengers lost their lives on this occasion. It’s the RNLI’s biggest rescue.

After the Point, things get progressively quieter, and there's the lighthouse to admire with its great light and gothic foghorns to warn shipping off.

Passing by, keep an eye out for a warning sign by a path on the right. This leads to the Lions Den, a fabulously impressive sinkhole that becomes more impressive as you walk on and look back at it. Be careful. I got on my knees to peek over.

Sticking to the coast path, there’s plenty more to enjoy along this section of the walk. Note the little huts that are the Lizard Wireless Station. In 1901, it was here Marconi, the bloke who invented the radio, figured out how to transmit signal beyond the horizon.  It was here they received the first ship to shore SOS call in 1910 when the Minnehaha ran aground off the Scillies. No laughing matter.

Visually more impressive but with less of a reach, is the shining white building ahead with LLOYDS SIGNAL STATION writ large on it.  Ensign flags were raised on its castellated roof to send visual messages to passing shipping, until it closed in 1969. Now you can hire it as a holiday getaway.

Making up a trio of lifesavers, next stop is the Lifeboat Station at Kilcobben Cove. After that, little Church Cove serves as a reminder of why they're needed. It's a lovely place for a reflective swim or picnic; the ocean both beauty and beast depending on its mood.

From here onward until Cadgwith, a mile and a half ahead, there's nothing but unadulterated and wonderful coastline to enjoy, some wooded, some open, and all relatively easy going too.

I lied. As you near Cadgwith, look out for a gate on your left. Carn Barrow it’s called on the OS map. There you’ll find remains of bronze age tombs (lead pic). Just earth indentations but prehistoric Celtic history to wonder at before rejoining the path to Cadgwith.

Next to ponder is the serpentine stone carved into the Devil’s Frying Pan. Once a cave, it became a natural bridge when the cave roof collapsed.

Admiring this geological wonder on a lovely day, you might wonder at the name. Imagine it in a storm, with Cornish breakers thundering through that gap. Time for an ale?

Luckily, next stop is Cadgwith Cove, a small but perfectly formed fishing village. Just beyond the the smell of the crabshack, the temptation of the ice cream parlour and colourful fishing boats winched on shore, there’s the Cadgwith Cove Inn.

Good local ales in a traditional and unpretentious bar make it the perfect place to stop. They also serve the local catch at very reasonable prices. We tucked into Megrim Sole. Not a fillet, the whole thing on a large square plate with little room left for the spuds. Delicious.

Now, after a breather watching the fishermen doing their stuff, you have a choice to make. Taxi or foot back? You'll find details of the local taxi at the pub.

The return journey is shorter by four miles if you choose to walk because you can shortcut back to Lizard Village at Housel Bay (after the lifeboat station and before the lighthouse). The turnoff is clearly signposted.

The more observant of you may also have noted a route back inland from Carn Barrow toward Gwavas farm on the OS map. I don't recommend it. Dull farmland and lane mostly. Stick to the coast path to Housel Bay and enjoy the coastline from a completely new perspective as the sun drops.