14. Devon Coast Path: *East Portlemouth to Gara Rock (part circular) - 5 miles - OS Landranger 202

Easy going on feet and eyes. Links to walk 15, East Prawle to Gara Rock if you want an all day walk.

There are hard to get to places in Devon which gives them a special quality. East Portlemouth and Gara Rock fit the bill. The lanes here are narrow, high edged, potholed and sometimes flooded. If the thought of scratched paintwork and tested suspension is too much to bear, catch the foot ferry from Salcombe. For those of you willing to drive to East Portlemouth, a car park at the bottom of the village is free, and the view overlooking the estuary is gob-smacking.

The footpath starts at the far end of the car park. Ignore the left option and carry straight on toward the ferry. Reaching a lane, to your right across the road was the lovely Venus café; further along a loo. We repeated this walk on the 10th of May 2024 and the cafe is no more. Pity. Being , but staying positive we took the opportunity to ferry over to Salcombe. Plenty of coffee places there along with the best dressed weekend sailors in Devon. We were tempted by the great looking - from the outside - Ferry Inn where the ferry drops you off. Empty as it was, 'no hot beverages after 11.30' they said. Grrr.

Returning on the ferry, we resumed our walk heading seaward along the beach to Mill Bay. You won't be able to do this when the tides in, so it's worth checking tide times to make sure you can. The alternative is the lane and it's not near so enchanting.

Mill Bay is one of the finest beaches in Devon. Fine golden sand, shady spots by the cliff, and great views. But no facilities. Take a picnic if you want to dally. You will be tempted if the suns out.

Apart from the the ferry landing, this is the only other place you can access the lane. To continue the walk head to it to pick up the coast path (signed).

You now enter woodland. Around May, you'll get to enjoy bluebells and flowering wild garlic hedging the path. Fortunately, there are also plenty of gaps through the trees to enjoy the views too. On the other side of the estuary that includes the remains of Salcombe Castle built during Henry VIII's reign. Otherwise known as Fort Charles, I'll let you deduce who’s side the occupants were on during the civil war a century or so later. Under siege, when Its commander, Edward Fortesque, finally conceded to the Roundheads, it was the fall of the last Loyalist stronghold in Devon. Not wanting any more bother from Loyalists, Oliver’s army wrecked it. Heavy seas have done the rest.

Soon you leave woodland and the shelter of the estuary for heath and the ocean. As with most of the South Hams, this spectacular part of the South West Coast Path is more akin to rugged Cornwall’s. But Devon it is, and in Spring, with gorse and sea pinks showing off their colours, it’s magic.

Eventually, the path forks. Left leads off toward a pretty, circular lookout shelter painted white. Behind it you'll find Gara Rock Hotel.

The hotel used to be a decaying memory of better times with a lively basement bar, but it's had a makeover and gone all boutique. No matter, it's still a good place for a tea or beer, although the service is unpredictable. Be forgiving, it can't be easy to get or keep staff in such a remote place, and the panoramic views make up for it's shortcomings.

P.s... if you fancy half an hour lazing on another fine beach, there’s one half a mile further east. Otherwise, head out of the hotel and into the car park to continue the walk. Take the path signposted Mill Bay.

This pleasant stroll along a tree lined path ends at a car park (with toilet), and Mill Bay. Turn right along the lane. The big houses that line it are well hidden but eventually you'll see a three way signpost. Follow the one to East Portlemouth for the car park you started this walk from.

Now, if your sat nav got you here, it's unlikely to take you back home via South Pool. But I recommend it unless it's high tide (when the lane will be flooded). Assuming the tides okay, take the first left from the car park.

Not only is this a very pretty village, it has the delightful Millbrook Inn, a great pub with excellent service and ales. Relaxing by the mill brook at the rear is one of life's treasures.

And while you're in this remote bit of Devon, it's likely you'll be heading back toward the A38 to get to wherever home is. I'd recommend another stop on the way at another Devon village: Sherford. There you'll find a a different kind of treasure at the local church.

Most churches removed their rood screens as England turned protestant. Not doing so could be dangerous. But in remote villages like Sherford's, they could get away with keeping them. They did, and it means we can enjoy the medieval panels painted by, it's believed, French monks. Those pesky Roundheads damaged them back in the 17th century, but not enough to destroy their charm.

Another ps.. some of these lanes are too narrow for a camper van. You have been warned!