8. *Devon Coast: Sidmouth to Ladram Bay (Circular) – 6.5 miles - OS Explorer 115

A few steep climbs but, on the whole, easy-going. Links to walk 9 if you want to make a full day of it.

For ease of parking, start this walk at Mutter’s Moor NT car park at the top of Peak Hill Road west of Sidmouth. If you decide to add a trip into Sidmouth itself, this can be easily done at the end by continuing along the coast path another mile, then climbing steep old Peak Hill back to Mutter's Moor car park, making the walk 8.5. Expect those thigh muscles to complain.

From the car park, walk west down the lane (yes, I know you can access Mutters Moor directly from the car park, but this is a better trail in my view) about 300 metres to where it turns sharp left. There, take the path on your right signposted Seven Stones.

Follow this pleasant track to the top. There, passing through a gate, the path divides. Go left and left again when it joins a track. You’re now on Mutter’s Moor, named after the smuggler Abraham Mutter.

This is so-called low heathland and the remains of human settlements going back 5000 years have been found here.

Go left when the track divides again, right at the next divide (lots of paths crisscross the moor) and right again. Now keep an eye to your left for a wooden signpost marked Coleton and - almost obscured by weathering - Pasaford Lane. Follow that. Don't panic about losing your way in this maze of tracks. The west side of Mutters Moor drops down through pine woods and each of several paths down connects to the same level path you're heading for at the bottom.

Descending, leaving heathland for those tall pines, enjoy lovely views left over to Newton Poppleford Arriving at a level path, dogleg left to follow it. On your way, ignore any other paths cutting off left. What you want is a right-angled path that drops down to your right.

I redid this walk on 14.7.24 and, unfortunately, the signpost by it was broken, but it's there in the undergrowth if you want reassurance. Follow it down to a stile and over. Now you're on Pasaford Lane. A track really, that turns into a magical high-banked holloway as you descend.

These old 'lanes' between farmer's fields take you back to the 18th century when Devon roads were so notoriously bad only packhorses and oxen pulling sleds could navigate them. Cartwheels were useless.

Eventually, a proper metalled lane appears. Go left (the 600 yds on the signpost indicates how far) until you reach pretty Burnthouse Farm.

Opposite the farm, there’s a footpath sign to Colaton Raleigh. Follow that down to and across a field then onto a footbridge over the Otter River. Go left at the other side and enjoy the river and dog walkers for almost a mile.

There are a few spots with gritty pretences of a beach that appear suitable for a dip - or at least a paddle if you’re in the mood. Or a picnic! Can't guarantee the quality of the water, tho.

Fingers crossed, an otter or a kingfisher might reveal themselves while you lunch. We saw a kingfisher's shimmering blue flash. Stunning bird. Stunning.

Continuing onward, feeling special as you pass under a parade of trees at attention - you'll recognise it when you see it - before recrossing the river at another footbridge. At the far, through a metal gate, go left for a few yards, then right for another track that also turns into a holloway.

When the light's right, these high-banked ancient ways are pure magic. Many disappeared with the introduction of turnpike trusts and the money they generated through tolls for road improvements. You may have noticed an old toll house at the west of Newton Poppleford on your drive here. Luckily,

Follow the track, then path, to rejoin the same lane you left at Burnthouse Farm. Over the lane to your right, the path continues. A little way in, at a farm gate to a field, go left.

From here, follow the red waymarkers through high-edged trails between fields to another lane.

Here, go left, then right in front of Sea View Farm to follow a path that takes you to a caravan park. Through this, you reach delightful de-lovely Ladram Bay.

For all the caravans and the paraphernalia of these places, the bay is remarkably pleasant, and a credit to whoever runs it.

There’s a café and fishmongers on the approach to the beach. A lobster, freshly caught and cooked would cost you about £13 they told me. What a treat to enjoy on the pebbled beach with its imposing sandstone stacks for company. On this latest rewalking of the route (Jul 24) I found the beach partly closed by a cliff fall. The fall caused much of the sandstone to break up and return to sand. No less deadly for that. It serves as a graphic warning not to dally too close to these soft porous rocks.

Once you've done your posh lobster crunching and munching, and shooing seagulls away who want to share (be alert, they don't ask and do the snatching on the wing from your blind side) it's time to join the coast path heading east. Partly taped off because of another fall, don't fret, there are signs for a short way around. Locating them, you'll pass the caravan site's pub with its local ales and excellent playpark to distract any kids you've brought with you. Maybe it's time for a pint before tackling the steep hills ahead?

As you follow the coast path upwards, from the cliff tops you'll see more sandstone stacks stranded offshore by erosion. If you’re lucky enough to have a low sun, they glow a rich terracotta.

Next comes a slice of woodland before emerging to scrubby low pine with a steep hill to your right.

Take the path that leads to the top. On the way there, there's an information board telling you about a Stone Age, and then around CE 400, a later Celtic settlement. This was the Dumnonii tribe. Marvelous views along the coast from here but what a fag to go get the morning paper.

These Dumnonii gave Devon its name, and they hung around until first the Romans, then the Anglo-Saxons, pushed them further west or back to France in the 7th century. That is if they survived the Vikings. Tough life back then, and it explains why they settled on high vantage points. There's a highish place above the Exe River, where currently the northwest corner of Exeter's ancient city wall is, and they had a settlement there, too, long before the Romans' appeared. They really were the roots of Devon.

Back to the coast path, continue east.

Meeting a gate and track, turn right. More natural woodland now, and glorious views left to rolling farmland. Even more glorious, by a bench and break in the trees, is a view down to Sidmouth. On a clear day, you might see as far as Portland Bill. Take a few minutes to enjoy. If you managed that hill to the Dumnonii settlement, you've earned it - and there's more hills ahead.

Further along, through another gate, soon the wood and farmland changes to heathland.

If you’re not intending to walk into Sidmouth, once the path starts to rise take a path left off the coast path. Reaching the top, head diagonally left toward a line of trees ahead. Where heath meets wood in the far left corner, the path joins the lane and car park that was the start of your trail.

For those doing the longer walk to Sidmouth, keep to the coast path through attractive woodland paths down onto Peak Hill Road.

A path leads off the road to your right to continue the coast path. Look out for curious white steps on your right leading to a castellated tower. This is Jacob’s Ladder. Unfortunately, not the biblical one that led to heaven, or so Jacob dreamed, but to a heavenly tea house and gardens (try to get the upstairs window seat).

Beneath and beyond the ladder, it was possible to walk the rest of the way into Sidmouth under a sandstone cliff overhang. It may now be closed for safety reasons, but you can get to Sidmouth through public gardens by the cafe. But first, check out the information board here. It tells you that this sandstone you're standing on, and that you also saw at Ladram Bay and along the Otter, is what’s left of a great desert in prehistoric times. Hard to believe.

If you didn't enjoy an ale at Ladram Bay, and need one now, my recommendation for Sidmouth is the Marine. Painted bright green, it's right on the front with outside tables looking out to the promenaders and sea. They'll do you a nice coffee or tea here, too, if you prefer.

That's the good news. The bad news is the return walk to the car park. Options are, keep to Peak Hill Road (shortest) or keep to the coast path and, when you emerge from the woodland to heathland, go right (signposted to Mutters Moor).

Or you could hire a paddle board, ponder how lucky you are, and decide to spoil yourself with a taxi back to the car park. Better that than mutter about the moor.