11. Dorset Coast: Portland Bill (Circular) - 5 miles - OS Landranger 194

Easy walking. No shade. Start at Weston and the junction of Weston Road and Weston Street. Plenty of street parking.

The Bill is a South Coast oddity. An island linked by a causeway to the mainland hanging like a massive teardrop off the end of the equally odd Chesil Beach. it was recently made famous by the floating barge moored there to house asylum seekers. But there's much more to it than the barge, which is not a prison as some protestors colourfully call it on their placards. Those staying on the barge are free to enjoy the pleasures of Castletown inns and nearby Weymouth. Atop the hill above Castletown is the real prison; a dark depressing but fascinating Victorian edifice

From the junction of Weston Road and Weston Street, looking west across the road you’ll see a footpath. Take it and turn left when it meets another path, then right to reach the coast. Go left along the coast path, enjoying the spectacular views west. If the bloke in the picture with his head in the ground is still there, it's probably time to call him an ambulance.

Passing some sort of factory, the first of three lighthouses come into view. A little further along you’ll see the second to your left, and, eventually, the third and tallest at the point of the Bill. This red and white beauty replaced its 18th century predecessor in 1906 and now has a visitors’ centre. Before that there were flickering beacons going back to Roman times.

Sticking out into the English Channel, surrounded by shallow rock ledges, the Bill is a deadly hazard for all that floats near its shores. The importance of these lighthouses past and present are obvious. Fifteen ships lost in 1901 alone probably explains why the current lighthouse with all its improvements was up and running five years later.

Time for tea?

Dropping down to the lighthouse you’ll see the Lobster Pot ‘Restaurant' to the left. Through my eyes it’s a cafe but, despite the pretentions, they make excellent Dorset Apple cake and crab sandwiches.

Sited on the southernmost point of the Dorset coast, it's a great place to sit outside and watch the boats doing their stuff on the ocean. Although often busy, there’s usually ample space in my experience.

When you’re ready to walk off the Dorset cake, continue along the coast path toward beach huts that have passed down through generations of 'islanders.' They were the subject of a costly legal dispute a couple of years ago (costly to the tenants who lost against the landowner - old old story). Despite that, they remain charming.

Along this section of coast you’ll see plenty of evidence of Portland Stone quarrying. A famous soft-hued limestone, rusting cranes hovering over natural stone ledges jutting out to sea are interesting reminders of how popular the stone was, and how hairy the quarrying of it.

The Romans were probably the first to make good use of it, but it was Christopher Wren who established its fame by using it for the new St Pauls Cathedral in London. No doubt some Portland Billers' thanked God for The Great Fire of London. Out of the ashes and all that.

Ignoring paths to your left, eventually coast path meets road. Turn right here then left soon after at a footpath sign pointing into yet another quarry. Entering this, there's a maze of tracks and paths but don't fret, heading north west will get you back to where you started the walk

My route was the path between two dirt tracks as you enter (see picture). When another track bisects it, cross and continue on the path. At the next track, turn left and follow that. This brings you back to Weston and Weston Street.

Driving back along Weston Road, you can’t miss the imposing church of St. George’s. Built by a Wren copycat, in pinches many of his ideas according to a guide at the church. Well done that copycat because it's beautiful and a welcome relief from the its ubiquitous gothic brothers. Well worth stopping to explore.

If you do this walk on a sunny day, you'll noticed the lack of any shade. Not many trees grow on the Bill. If it's left you hot and sticky, on leaving for home you might enjoy a dip from Smallmouth Cove. To get there, take a right at the end of the mainland end of the causeway and park up. It's usually quiet, even on the sunniest days. And if quiet's not what you’re after, head east to lively Weymouth, a pleasant walk in itself.