20. Scilly Isles: Tresco - 6 miles circular - OS Explorer 101

These Scilly Isle posts don’t tell you how to get around the islands. That’s easy. It’s an island with clearly marked paths, walkable in the time between the morning boat from St. Mary’s dropping you off and the evening boat picking you up. What they do is tell and show what to expect along the way with bits of info. to help you enjoy the experience. And you will enjoy. The Scillies are marvellous.

Where they drop you will depend on the tide. For this post, I’ll assume it’s Appletree Bay, close by the famous Abbey gardens, set among the ruins of a Benedictine priory.

The café and toilet there may be just what you want before starting your hike, or you may want to explore the gardens with their red squirrels among the flora.

Frankly, there’s stunning plants to see along the perimeter of the estate (heading east) for free, some looking scarily like triffids with thick arms and conical heads. What is also free is a fabulous museum with figureheads from local shipwrecks. The star is a carved section in the form of a Roman warrior from the stern of the Galleon Colossos, sunk off the island during a storm in 1798.

As often as not, you’ll be picked up for your return journey to St. Mary's at a different location called New Grimby, just north of you Appletree Bay. If so, it makes sense to start your walk east along the perimeter of the estate, turning right where the path ends at another path to rejoin the coast at Pentle Bay. If you’re yearning for the sand at Appletree Bay, don’t worry, Pentile beach is just as lovely and there are more impressive sands to come.

Now on the east side of the island, turn left at the coast path or along the beach for the trek to the northern point. Enjoy as you go the dozens of other islands to your right, the largest St. Martin's with its equally fine stretches of sand. The Isles of Scilly are never as busy as the mainland, and you'll see more oyster catchers, gulls, swallows and other winged beasties than people.

An easy scramble over granite rocks brings you to another beach lovelier than the last. Well worth settling down to take it in. Try a paddle and discover how cold the clear water is before risking a dip.

Much colder that the Gulf Stream warmed waters of the mainland, the shock’s been known to kill people foolish enough to dive in without acclimatizing.

This beach ends at Old Grimsby and the Ruin, an upmarket café surrounded by expensive chalets. This is not the grim Grimsby of the Humber. Nay lad. The helicopter pad by the gardens was a clue. Tresco is where the Scilly Isles wealthier visitors tend to go. But don’t be put off. There's always a friendly welcome at the cafe and, if full, a takeaway shack next to it (and toilet).

Refreshed, rejoin the coast path. The signs may also indicate it's the way to Piper's Hole, a small cave. Directions to the 'Hole' will peter out long before you get there, and the chances of finding it are remote. The entrance is small, partly blocked by a large boulder, and difficult to get to.

Luckily for me, my partner was raised on the Scilly Isles and her grandad showed her where it is. Even then, it took a while to find, hidden as it is among the cliffs. But should you find it, and manage to scramble over the boulder and get in, you'll be rewarded by a passage that leads to a pool.

In her childhood days, there was a small boat to get you to the other side. Not any more.

This exposed northern end of the island is heathland, very different from the lush green of the lower lying ground. Approaching the northern tip, look to your left for the ruins of a castle built by Charles I. No need to stride toward it. Continue on the coast path. As it turns south, it'll appear again along with the more intact and impressive castle Oliver Cromwell built after he knocked Charle's down. Round towered, it was the latest design. Cannons from attacking Danish ships would, it was hoped, ricochet off it.

Sitting as it does on the coast and sheltered channel between Tresco and Bryher, it looks as impressive as the day it was built. Opposite, Hangman Rock with its gallows atop (yes, really) is a reminder of its dark past and purpose. Great view if its going to be your last, though. Always a bright side. And Charles' ruin and Cromwell's intact legacy are free to explore as you descend.

Dragging yourself away from this 17th century marvel, push on through high bracken to New Grimsby.

Looking older than Old Grimsby, one of the first buildings you come across is an elderly toilet, so basic I had to include a picture. Smells as it looks.

A little further along is the Island’s only pub, the New Inn. It's a fine unpretentious one serving good ales and simple food at fair prices. Great local ice cream, too. There should be plenty of time to enjoy it before your boat arrives to take you back to St.Mary's.

If you’re not being picked up here but near Tresco gardens again, it’s another ¾ of a mile further south, so leave plenty of time to get there. If you miss the boat the only alternative is a water taxi. Expensive.

Ps… if you want to know the legend of how these islands were formed see my Bryher post. Drowning everybody (not just King Arthur’s enemies) between here and Land’s End, Merlin deserves to be tried for war crimes. In Cromwell's day that would have meant a short boat ride to Hangman's Rock or a spell (couldn't resist) in the tower.